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The Masked Sayacas of Ajijic, Mexico

These cross-dressing, flour-throwing masked characters chase kids through the cobblestone streets during the town's multi-week Carnival celebrations.

Last Updated Jun 28, 2020 Ongoing Photo Series

Mexico is a land bursting with culture and traditions, some dating back thousands of years. Despite a constant bombardment of external influences, from Spanish invaders to its present-day neighbors to the north, the country’s customs remain a part of everyday life for many people, especially outside of the modern-day clamor of the city. Holidays such as Day of the Dead are nationally observed, but after six years of living in Mexico what I have found most interesting are the hundreds of local, mostly unknown traditions you’ll find in different towns across the country.

Among the thousands of pueblos in Mexico, it seems that each has at least one unique custom to call its own. Most people outside of Ajijic, Jalisco, have never heard of the town’s tradition of the sayacas, not even those who live in one of the nearby villages.

The sayacas appear each Carnival in Ajijic to the delight and horror of the kids living there. During six days of parades, they put on masks and dress in women’s clothing, which they stuff with shapely balloons. Then they chase kids through the streets, tackling them on the hard cobblestones and rubbing their faces with flour. It’s a recent tradition which the town started in the 1960s, and it helps people let off steam before the 40 days of Lent.

It also serves as an opportunity to cross the established boundaries of both age and sex. Young kids will chase down older ones or be daring enough to throw flour on an adult. Teenagers will use the opportunity to flirt with the opposite sex or shove a fistful of flour into the face of their longtime crush.

The sayaca activities are still dominated by boys and young men, who naturally enjoy and augment the inherent roughhousing aspects of the events. Originally, girls did not participate either as a sayaca or as one of the kids who gets chased through the streets. But this has changed and girls and women can now do as they please. Fathers accompany their very young daughters in the many parades and older girls show up by themselves or with groups of amigas to take part in all the fun.

Though traditions from different parts of Mexico might be unknown to each other, each one can still be recognized as being distinctly Mexican. Collectively they remind us that as a single country is able to unify itself through its diversity, in spite of the world’s many cultural differences we are all built from the same human stuff.

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The Masked Zayacas of Ajijic
Kids getting dressed as zayacos in Ajijic, Mexico
Portrait of two zayacos during Carnival
The Masked Zayacas of Ajijic, Mexico
A man dressed as a Hitler zayaca
Zayacos
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Zayaca flour attack in the town bullring
Zayacos
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Zayacos

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Carnaval 2022 Carnaval 2022
Two children are dressed as catrines on the Day of Two children are dressed as catrines on the Day of the Dead in the cemetery in Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico.
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Dos niños vestidos como catrines en el Día de Muertos en el panteón de Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico.  #ajijic #jalisco #mexico #dayofthedead #diademuertos #diadelosmuertos #catrinas #catrines #catrina #catrin #cemetery #panteon #graveyard #mextagram #mexico_maravilloso #mexigers #ig_mexico #vive_mexico #igersmexico #loves_mexico #wu_mexico #pasionxmexico #mexicolors #traveltheworld #igtravel #culture #travel #mexicodesconocido #méxicolindo #mexicoandando
Victor Rochin launches a rocket during the process Victor Rochin launches a rocket during the procession for Saint Andrew in Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico.
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Victor Rochin lanza un cohete durante la procesión de San Andrés en Ajijic, Jalisco, México.
Hice una página web / guía turística virtual pa Hice una página web / guía turística virtual para Ajijic, México, el pueblo en lo que he vivido los últimos 8 años. Restaurantes, tiendas, artistas, artesanos, hoteles, qué hacer, fiestas y festivales. Además de ser fotógrafo, también soy diseñador de web! Que la encuentres útil si alguna vez estás en la área. Visita https://lakesideguide.mx o checa el bio link de hoy.
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I made a website/virtual tourist guide to Ajijic, Mexico, the town where I've been living for the past 8 years. Restaurants, shops, artists, artisans, hotels, what to do, fiestas & festivals. Apart from being a photographer, I'm also a web designer! If you're ever in the area, I hope you find it useful. Visit https://lakesideguide.mx or check today's bio link.  #mexico #ajijic #chapala #jalisco #guadalajara #lagodechapala #lakesideguide
Un joven charro en el Día del Charro en Ajijic, J Un joven charro en el Día del Charro en Ajijic, Jalisco, México. Los charros tienen su propio día de fiesta en México. Visita bit.ly/mexicowboys para ver más fotos de charros o haz clic en el bio link de hoy.
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A young cowboy on the Day of the Cowboy in Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico. Cowboys have their own national holiday in Mexico. Visit bit.ly/mexicowboys to see more photos of charros or click on today's bio link.
Un "castillo" de fuegos artificiales durante las f Un "castillo" de fuegos artificiales durante las fiestas patronales de San Andrés en Ajijic, Jalisco, México. Los castillos pueden alcanzar 15-20 metros o a veces más.  Para más fotos de castillos pirotécnicos visita bit.ly/fireworkscastillos.  A pyrotechnics worker keeps close watch on a fireworks "castle" during the fiestas patronales for St. Andrew in Ajijic, Jalisco, Mexico. These structures reach 50 feet or sometimes more. For more photos of Mexican fireworks castles visit bit.ly/fireworkscastillos

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